news:3923fd33_3@dilbert.ic.sunysb.edu…

> have 2 problems with the brakes.   The first is the breaks pulsates when
> pressed.  > pulsation of the pedal is perhaps a half an inch.  The second
problem is
> that breaks always seem to be slightly on.

Well, my thinking is that the 1st problem is related to the 2nd one. Let’s
say the master cylinder is causing the brakes to be partially applied at
times – - that would cause the rotors to heat up and warp which would cause
a pulsating pedal – -

Al. Lawrence in Alberta

I did forget to mention that the "lockup" happen to all four wheels.   At
the time that the vehicle brakes where stuck in the engaged position (even
with the car off), I jacked up each wheel on the car and found that they
were all "locked" (not 100% locked, but close enough).  I disengaged the
emergency break on the back which did not help.  I did check the front
brakes.  It revealed that the rotors where in pretty "groovy" shape (excuse
the pun) and would need replacing.  I too was guessing that that was the
reason for the pulsating, but not the lockup, since all 4 wheels locked.  So
I don’t think that the calipers are the reason for the break dragging
problem.

keith

"Tom Heintz" <tomn…@ktis.net> wrote in message

news:8g11kl$72s$1@veger.ktis.net…

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> Keith Welsh <kwels…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3923fd33_3@dilbert.ic.sunysb.edu…
> > Hello
> > I have a 85 Plymouth Duster 2.2 l engine (like the turismo and charger).
> I
> > have 2 problems with the brakes.   The first is the breaks pulsates when
> > pressed.  The pulsation is a very smooth and does not change much with
> > vehicle speed or breaking strength.  The peak to peak movement of the
> > pulsation of the pedal is perhaps a half an inch.

> This sounds like your rotors are warped.  If they weren’t turned for the
> last brake job or if your brakes are close to ready for another brake job
> you will have this problem.  Chrysler was notorious for warped rotors from
> about the early 80′s through now.  This could be caused your second
problem
> that you have listed below.

>  The second problem is
> > that breaks always seem to be slightly on.  This is a transient problem.
> > Meaning sometimes the breaks seem to be fine (completely off when the
> break
> > pedal is not pressed) and the other extreme is the point where the car
> > brakes had be engaged (not by any pressure on the break pedal) to the
> point
> > that the car would not move.  The latter was the case even with the car
> not
> > running.  It is a master cylinder problem?  What would cause this type
of
> effect.

> Two possible answers come to mind here.  It could be that your parking
brake
> is dragging sometimes (In other words, even though the parking brake is
> released, the cable or mechanism is a little rusted or frozen causing
> everything to not release).  The othere possibility would relate to your
> problem above.  Your front brake calipers are slightly frozen and not
> releasing everytime you let off of the brakes.  In this case you will at
the
> very least need to take the calipers loose and clean all of the hardware
> that it floats on and have your rotors turned.  At this point you may need
> to replace the rotors.  At the very least get a look at your brakes so
that
> you can formulate a plan before you get to the point of not having brakes
> when you need them.

> > thanks in advance
> > keith

> I hope this helps.  If you have any other questions or just want to let me
> know how it turns out, feel free to write.  Good Luck & God Bless.

> Tom Heintz  "Mopar Maniac"

news:3923fd33_3@dilbert.ic.sunysb.edu…

> Hello
> I have a 85 Plymouth Duster 2.2 l engine (like the turismo and charger).
I
> have 2 problems with the brakes.   The first is the breaks pulsates when
> pressed.  The pulsation is a very smooth and does not change much with
> vehicle speed or breaking strength.  The peak to peak movement of the
> pulsation of the pedal is perhaps a half an inch.

This sounds like your rotors are warped.  If they weren’t turned for the
last brake job or if your brakes are close to ready for another brake job
you will have this problem.  Chrysler was notorious for warped rotors from
about the early 80′s through now.  This could be caused your second problem
that you have listed below.

 The second problem is
> that breaks always seem to be slightly on.  This is a transient problem.
> Meaning sometimes the breaks seem to be fine (completely off when the
break
> pedal is not pressed) and the other extreme is the point where the car
> brakes had be engaged (not by any pressure on the break pedal) to the
point
> that the car would not move.  The latter was the case even with the car
not
> running.  It is a master cylinder problem?  What would cause this type of

effect.

Two possible answers come to mind here.  It could be that your parking brake
is dragging sometimes (In other words, even though the parking brake is
released, the cable or mechanism is a little rusted or frozen causing
everything to not release).  The othere possibility would relate to your
problem above.  Your front brake calipers are slightly frozen and not
releasing everytime you let off of the brakes.  In this case you will at the
very least need to take the calipers loose and clean all of the hardware
that it floats on and have your rotors turned.  At this point you may need
to replace the rotors.  At the very least get a look at your brakes so that
you can formulate a plan before you get to the point of not having brakes
when you need them.

> thanks in advance
> keith

I hope this helps.  If you have any other questions or just want to let me
know how it turns out, feel free to write.  Good Luck & God Bless.

Tom Heintz  "Mopar Maniac"

–
Rgds,
CP

Remove "spamproofer" for email replies.

Radde Majeed <maj…@americasm01.nt.com> wrote in message

news:392433AA.C5EF4F4B@americasm01.nt.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> Hello.

> I have a 1993 Ford Escort LX.

> Recently, I’ve noticed that upon accelaration from a stop sign or
> traffic light intersection, sometimes the parking brake light (indicator

> on the dashboard) comes on.  The parking brake lever is all the way down
> though.  Then, most of the time, after driving a few
> seconds, the light goes off.  Also, when I deccelarate, the light goes
> off – almost always.

> Mind you, it doesn’t feel like the parking brake is hindering motion
> like actual braking.  So, this is leading me to suspect that something
> is pushed back (upon accelarating) and contacting a switch or something
> (that lights up the indicator) and when deccelarating that
> something is forced off.  However, I’m not too sure what is going on.
> Can anyone give me a general picture of what could be
> happening and how I can fix it.

–
Men are like grapes. Women stomp all over them
until they become something they’d like to
have their dinner with.

Dan AKA wildncrazyguy
http://CoolFreeLinks.com
I.M. Late <suprd…@aol.comAolsucks> wrote in message

news:20000521205256.10379.00001067@ng-md1.aol.com…

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

> >>Where do jack stands go, usually?

> >   There should be a diagram in the manual that tells where to use a
> >hydraulic
> >lift on the car. Jackstands can always safely be used on those points,
> >keeping
> >in mind that a lift will lift the car on a level attitude, so too much
angle
> >with jackstands, like jacking one side or end, should be approached with
> >care.

> depending on the vehicle, jackstands can usually go beneath the car’s
lower
> control arms.
> D.B. Young.      Team OS/2!
> –>this message printed on recycled disk space<–
> hurry, hurry! step right up! see the computers you used as a kid!
> http://members.aol.com/suprdave/classiccmp/museum.htm

> Delete the obvious (Aolsucks) to reply.

   There should be a diagram in the manual that tells where to use a hydraulic
lift on the car. Jackstands can always safely be used on those points, keeping
in mind that a lift will lift the car on a level attitude, so too much angle
with jackstands, like jacking one side or end, should be approached with care.

George

On Mon, 12 Jun 2000 20:02:54 +1000, "John Mackesy"

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<m…@melbpc.org.au> wrote:
>We’re probably looking at mechanical vibration effects on the meter. If you
>isolate the meter from its associated circuitry and run the machinery
>through its speed range you’ll probably find the "magic" speed. It’s an old
>and well known problem. The cure is to isolate the meter from the vibration
>source (stating the obvious!)

>John Mackesy

John Mackesy

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

  jlabo…@cooptel.qc.ca wrote:
> > If the alternator was still producing the same amount of current, It
> > would not let the engine speed increase until the regulator comes
in.
> > (Nothing is created and nothing is lost, everything is transformed.
> > Remenber this one? ) The wiring of the amp. meter must be wrong or
the
> > instrument is defective or something else, otherwise you have
created
> > a perpetual mouvement, and i don’t beleave in them.

> > Michael Gillies wrote:
> >  Hello all.

> >  A friend of mine is using a 24V 35A alternator (motorola 8MR) in a
> > 24V
> >  home power system. The alternator is driven by a steam engine at a
> > speed (RPM) that gives between 10A & 15A (charging current), which
is
> > a
> > sufficient charge for his battery bank. When the voltage rises to
> >  approximately 27.2V, the alternator appears to disconnect (field
> > turned
> >  off?) which reduces the mechanical load seen by the steam engine.
At
> >  this stage, the steam engine speed increases (rapidly) until the
> >  governor engages and regulates the speed. With this happening, the
> >  alternator still produces 10A – 15A (charge current), according to
> > the
> >  ammeter connected between the alternator and the battery bank
(after
> > he
> >  regulator).

> >  I assume that the 27.2V is the normal disconnect voltage for the
> >  alternator. What I don’t understand is why a charging current is
> > being
> >  produced when the field has apparently been disconnected. For this
> >  current to flow, the alternator voltage must be higher than the
> > battery
> >  voltage. Does anyone know of a simple circuit that can be used to
> > shunt
> >  the load before the alternator reaches 27.2V and disconnects?

> >  Thanks in advance.

> > > Michael Gillies
> > > mgill…@csse.monash.edu.au

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

> If the alternator was still producing the same amount of current, It
> would not let the engine speed increase until the regulator comes in.
> (Nothing is created and nothing is lost, everything is transformed.
> Remenber this one? ) The wiring of the amp. meter must be wrong or the
> instrument is defective or something else, otherwise you have created
> a perpetual mouvement, and i don’t beleave in them.

> Michael Gillies wrote:
>  Hello all.

>  A friend of mine is using a 24V 35A alternator (motorola 8MR) in a
> 24V
>  home power system. The alternator is driven by a steam engine at a
> speed (RPM) that gives between 10A & 15A (charging current), which is
> a
> sufficient charge for his battery bank. When the voltage rises to
>  approximately 27.2V, the alternator appears to disconnect (field
> turned
>  off?) which reduces the mechanical load seen by the steam engine. At
>  this stage, the steam engine speed increases (rapidly) until the
>  governor engages and regulates the speed. With this happening, the
>  alternator still produces 10A – 15A (charge current), according to
> the
>  ammeter connected between the alternator and the battery bank (after
> he
>  regulator).

>  I assume that the 27.2V is the normal disconnect voltage for the
>  alternator. What I don’t understand is why a charging current is
> being
>  produced when the field has apparently been disconnected. For this
>  current to flow, the alternator voltage must be higher than the
> battery
>  voltage. Does anyone know of a simple circuit that can be used to
> shunt
>  the load before the alternator reaches 27.2V and disconnects?

>  Thanks in advance.

> > Michael Gillies
> > mgill…@csse.monash.edu.au